【環遊尋美拾遺錄】【皇氏古建築大全】【黃劍博客圖文集】

Jumbo Heritage List © Epic Adventure of Jumbo Huang

第694回：雨城拉什特温湿润，儒德可汗山城隐现

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©原创图文(本图文中的照片和文字版权归Jumbo Huang所有，任何形式转载请联系作者：Jumbo_Huang@126.com, 微信号: Jumboheritagelist 或 Huang_Jumbo)，本图志全部图片谢绝一切非完整性的截图转载！

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请自重，特别谢绝各种手工特意叠加商业网站水印的转载！本人摄影照片作品保留一切权利。作品中图片不得直接或者间接用于以营利为目的一切商业行为，违者必究。文章来源：《皇氏古建築大全》和《環遊尋美拾遺錄》及《黄剑博客图文集》）

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每逢事，必尽力

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2015年08月27日，早上六点前就起床，昨天还在为越演越烈的欧洲移民危机而担忧，地区战役导致大量难民蜂拥进入弹丸之地的欧洲，实在是令人震惊。想起我国股市周期性暴跌，令我昨晚失眠了，

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故今天起来后精神萎靡，洗漱完毕后我推开窗户，发现外面居然还在下雨，从昨天晚上到今天早上，这个叫雷什特（拉什特）地方已经淅淅沥沥地下了十几个小时的雨了，我的心情也跟这个天气一样，变得非常郁闷，今天到底要不要出门？

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是否窝在酒店发呆一天？最后我决定还是先下来到外面吃个饭，与媛出门就发现酒店楼下的餐厅还没有开门，斜对面的小餐厅倒是开门了，进去咨询菜谱的价格，伙计却告知现在还没有饭菜销售，要我等到十点之后了，其它大部分餐厅都是关门了，今天虽然是周四，却是伊朗的周末。

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无奈我们走到大街上寻找餐厅，旁边有个卖烤肉的店，虽然开门了，但并不招待客人，因为还没有到吃饭的时间，过马路去菜市场，大部分店铺关门，

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倒是有二家卖腌菜的店是开门的，店里的年轻人非常热情，不停招手要我们拍照，还舀起来一些黏糊状的酱料和腌制的果仁等给我们品尝，我倍感恶心呕吐，

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伊朗拉什特地区的居民喜欢吃酱料，还把水果蔬菜（包括洋葱大蒜等）腌制在罐子里销售。我们继续在几条街上找餐厅，除了卖馕的，几乎没有看到任何正常一点的早餐店，多是卖些干巴巴的饼干面包之类的店铺，

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逛了近一个小时还是找不到任何吃的，超市也没有开门，之前还对斋月期间来穆寺林国家旅行的东方人感到由衷的同情，但即便在正常的年月，我们都无法找到任何适合东方人胃口的餐厅。

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除了德黑兰，伊朗几乎没有中餐厅，没有兰州拉面馆，也没有炒米粉煮面条，虽然拉什特地区生产水稻，但卖米饭的餐厅都非常稀少，太令人匪夷所思了。最后我们走进一个全是男人的餐厅，

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呆了半天硬是不知道要吃什么，无奈地走了出来，之后只能在路口买了二万的烤蛋糕，虽然门口有个老太婆正在卖拨好的扁豆，但她不能说英语，然后她居然要我们买一大袋的蚕豆，最后我们只能放弃交易了。

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返回酒店就把剩下的一袋方便面拿出来煮着吃，后来我看到雨势减小，就跟媛一起出门，穿过步行街抵达路口，这里老是停泊着几十辆出租车，外地人还以为这些车是普通的出租车，其实这就是伊朗特色，

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因为很多城市的公交系统不发达，导致出租车也扮演类似公交车的角色，我称之为穿梭出租车，也可以算是拼车的一种，就是这种出租车的行驶路线是固定的，但上车后必须坐满4个乘客才会出发，价格就比单程的乘坐出租车便宜几倍。

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我们上了一辆黄色的出租车，沿途还上来两个乘客，约十多分钟就抵达大桥旁边的公交车站，下车给了司机1.4万里拉尔，约合人民币3元。我们走到车站，看到那里停泊着几辆小巴，我们走过去咨询，发现小巴是空的，

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也没有看到司机，看来运营这条线路的小巴车公司暂停营业了，几个司机跑过来问我去哪里，我就咨询他们是否可能替我们包车去马苏莱或儒德可汗城堡等地方(Masuleh & Qale Rudkhan Castle Ghal-e-Rudkhan)，

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结果这些司机犹豫了半天，还是建议我们先乘坐穿梭出租车去福曼再说。如是我们又上了一个中老年人驾驶的黄色老出租车，坐满四个乘客后汽车就启动了，行驶约35公里才抵达福曼市，只有我们两人是从起始站一直坐到终点站，其他两个位置的乘客都陆续提前下车了，最后我们在福曼市区下车后就给了司机4万，约合人民币8元。

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大街上的银行非常多，餐馆就比较少了，我们一路走到十字路口，对面有个清真寺，这时天上的雨是越下越大，我们非常郁闷，犹豫着到底要不要去马苏莱村和丛林城堡山，最后我感觉反正在下雨，不如找个地方先吃个早中饭，免得呆会爬山时肚子饿着，如是我们过马路开始沿福曼市区找吃的地方，尔后看到一家还算干净的西式餐厅(Arezoman Pizza Refah K. Bank)，走进去正巧碰到一群年轻的穆寺林女学生从楼上下来，我以为她们会说英语，想请她们跟店主翻译下餐单，结果女孩们居然不懂英语，

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无奈我就随便点了份比萨饼，结果老板就给我们烘培了最好的比萨饼，虽然我们等了很久，但最后吃上可口的蘑菇和鲜肉比萨饼后，还是感到很满足的，结账时支付13万，还是比中国的比萨饼便宜。出了餐厅外面还在下雨，继续走在马路上，完全不知道那里有汽车到儒德可汗丛林城堡，

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我们漫无目的地走在接近十字路口的地方，我先咨询了几个出租车司机，结果都不懂英文，小地方的群众就是比较野蛮，受教育程度也比较低，不久一对高挑的黑袍母女经过我们身边，媛可能是想练习下英语，她就问那位小女生是否能说英语，结果蒙上黑纱和长袍的女儿居然能说上几句，如是在她的翻译下，我大致明白如何坐车去丛林城堡，但又无法找到正确的车站，

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那位黑袍女儿也跟我解释不清，最后她急了，跟母亲商议后决定亲自带我们去那个车站，其实这对母女原本是要去前方拜访她叔叔的，现在特意折返往回走，实在是让我们过意不去了。

之前我以为那个车站肯定就在附近，结果黑袍母女俩居然带着我们走了几公里，连续穿越了几个街巷，最后才找到一个转盘旁边的广场，那里就停泊着几辆穿梭出租车，黑袍女儿年方14岁，但非常成熟，个子比媛还高，我们以为她起码有20岁了，她母亲比我还高，估计比我大不了几岁，因为穿着黑袍，走在我前面仿佛是一尊移动的黑塔。

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虽然在土耳其和伊朗的很多城市都会碰到热情的当地人，但拉什特和福曼的当地人对我们两个东方人就更加热情了，其实在这些地方呆了几天，我还没有在街上碰到任何其他东方人，也没有见过日本人和在欧洲泛滥的韩国游客，连欧美游客也极少能看到，故而一旦我们两个中国人走在偏僻的乡镇，自然会吸引到很多伊朗人的注意，沿途到处是跟我们打招呼的人，每个人都想知道我们来自何方，要到哪里去。

这里的伊朗人跟欧洲不同，一旦你要问路，他们动辄直接带你找到目的地，抑或开车送你到目的地，这种精神在其他国家是无法想象的。

今天这对黑袍母女就是非常热情的传统穆斯林母女，她们虽然要去探亲，但为了给我们指路，不辞辛苦地多走了几公里路，帮助我们还不求回报，真是伊朗的活雷锋。

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黑袍女儿带我们上了一辆黄色的穿梭出租车，还帮我们问了标准车资，是12个霍姆尼币，我当时没有反应过来，等出租车行驶起来，一位老年穆寺林妇女跟我们挤在后排位置后，我才开始寻思到底霍姆尼币是什么，最后才知道一个霍姆尼币就是一万。

穿梭出租车的目的地是25公里之外的儒德可汗丛林城堡，我旁边和前面的乘客都陆续下了车，不久又换了几个乘客，他们给的车资从5000到10000里拉尔不等。最后半程基本就只剩下我们两个乘客，沿途的河流水势暴涨，到处是江南水乡的风光，因为下雨，让我想起了媛的故乡永州，那里也是经常下雨。

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真没有想到伊朗居然还有如此湿润的地区。最后出租车抵达了一个繁华的游客集散中心，广场上停满了几百辆轿车，令我非常震惊，因为今天下雨，我以为没有人会冒雨爬山的，但结果是居然有大量的伊朗本地人趁周末开车过来爬山。我下车后给了司机4万，然后开始穿过卖工艺品和食品的游客集散中心，沿途很多卖竹竿的，临时用来当登山杖用的，我之后也花了5000给媛买了一根竹竿，发现还是挺好用的。

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爬山时会先经过一座桥，下面是暴涨的溪水，雨一直在下，我们也只能撑伞爬山了，每隔几公里就能看到一些卖热茶和水烟的摊位，还有卖鸡蛋和饼干的，一些人会坐在小溪旁边的棚子里边喝热茶边休息。

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雨天路滑，我们格外小心，此山虽然有一千多米高，但并没有安装缆车，所有的人都必须亲自爬山，只有台阶，没有栏杆，全程只看到我们两个中国人在爬山，除了一对疑似欧美游客，其他都是伊朗本地人，而德黑兰过来的人最多，这些女孩爬上山就很奔放了，可能是山上没有宗教警察约束她们的行为吧。

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以家庭为单位出游的伊朗人非常多，特别是年轻夫妇带儿童出游的更多，我们至少看到近十对夫妇带着女儿出游的，且女童是骑在父亲脖子上，让父亲抗着上下山的。伊朗似乎不存在男多女少的问题，两伊战争后伊朗基本是女多男少，故一个男人娶几个媳妇是很正常和容易的事情。

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我们艰难地爬行了一个多小时，虽然最后雨势变小了，但山林中开始起雾了，我们一直没有看到城堡，心情焦躁，直到接近两个山峰附近时，才看到壮阔的山顶丛林城堡，真的是不可思议，在如此高的山顶，居然会隐藏着这么大规模的城堡。

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等我们走进城门，居然发现要收门票，且价格高达10万每人，我踌躇了很久，最后媛不想浪费钱，就让我单独进去，我先是拿出50万的钞票给卖票的壮男，给他解释说只买一张票，

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结果他作势要撕下五个人的票据，我忙收回50万的大钞，转而给他10万的小钞票，结果他给了我两张票，同时叫媛也跟着我进了景区。伊朗人的豪爽和好客令人动容！

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走进城堡一看，大雾弥漫，远处的城墙都隐藏在水雾中，让我们非常气馁，看到山上下着雨，又飘着云雾，可谓祸不单行了。我拿着媛的套着皮套的富士相机拍照，先爬上左侧的山堡，

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参观了几个眺望塔，部分景点不对外开放，不久奇迹出现了，原本被雨雾笼罩的城堡开始部分显露出来，如是我走下台阶，疾步爬到对面的城垛上，想站在高处去拍摄对面的城堡，可刚爬上城垛，聚集的雨雾又把对面的城堡遮掩住了，真是晦气，

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我忙转身取下背包的防雨罩，先拿出单反相机，打算趁雨雾散去就都拍几张照片，结果等了半天都是云雾缭绕的情形，让我心情郁闷，后来几个伊朗人爬上台阶，叫我给他们拍合影，之后我趁雨雾过大，顺便爬到后面的山上参观了一些残破的城墙，这些城堡是依山势而建，酷似武当山的道家建筑群。

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等到快14点时，奇迹出现了，雨雾开始渐渐消散，我忙拿出相机开始拍照，之后太阳隐约出现了几分钟，附近群山露出真面目，绿林滴翠，云雾飘渺，真乃人间仙境了。陆续逛了几个古城墙，拍了一些照片，然后返回到古城中间，山上有泉水可以饮用。

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呆了一会我们就开始下山，此时雨也停了，下山的路比较好走，除了比较滑的地方要格外小心外，我们一直往山下走，但一直有伊朗人开始往山上爬。林中有瀑布，还能看到一些马匹，

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但没有看到有人骑马。抵达山脚又拦了一辆崭新的出租车，司机是个刚做过隆鼻手续的年轻人，他开价20万，我还价到12万送我们返回福曼市区。这个年轻人在汽车上打开流行音乐，一路飞驰，没有拉上其他乘客。

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后来我们下车去买蔬菜，在菜市场买菜时居然奇迹般地碰到了早上帮我们带路的黑袍母女俩，真是缘分啊！我们陆续买了2串葡萄，3个苹果，三个黄瓜，两个大蒜花费94000里拉尔，在地摊边找老人购买5个鸡蛋花费20000里拉尔，一盘碎牛肉要30000里拉尔，二个大洋葱的价格是10000里拉尔，

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我们与一对母女及妇女坐穿梭出租车返回拉什特市区，又花费60000里拉尔，过广场时发现一个汽车爆胎了，群众都围过去参观，返回酒店后准备做饭了。

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媛有皮肤过敏史，曾经半夜起来去医院打吊针，因为脸都肿胀了，她现在手臂上已经起了湿疹。我跟媛分别贴了云南白药膏，今天爬山还是很累的。晚上又开始下雨了，真是麻烦。

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我们在旅馆吃无籽小葡萄，非常甜，这种葡萄比我们在中国吃的葡萄小几倍，但味道更独特。出国前，我以为开心果是美国产的，而且以为开心果跟核桃一样，一旦成熟就会外壳变硬变白，

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但到了伊朗我才发现，开心果原来是绿色的，新鲜的开心果的果仁几乎很绿，吃起来不会上火，而放久变黄的开心果则基本失去营养价值了。

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所有在中国商场购买的美国盗版开心果，不但价格奇贵，营养价值也奇低。此种水果裂开后成开口笑的形状，故而又俗称开心果，又名必思答，绿仁果等。

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阿月浑子其实就是一种干果，俗称开心果，又名“无名子”，类似白果，开裂有缝而与白果不同。开心果富含维生素、矿物质和抗氧化元素，具有低脂肪、低卡路里、高纤维的显著特点，是健康的明智选择。它主要产于叙利亚、伊拉克、伊朗、前输联西南部和南欧。我国新疆亦有栽培，开心果适合在该区正常生长，且有很好的经济效益，同时可以作为一个优良的水土保持树种。

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属黄连木属，目前分布区域以地中海沿岸各国，美国西南部、俄罗斯、中国新疆等地为主，性喜光，生长在海拔600米到1200米的阳坡山地，深厚石灰质土壤，排水良好的松砂壤土生长颇佳，植物不耐潮湿而怕积水。阿月浑子属干旱亚热带的古老树种，据考生存在4000万年前第三纪时期，是亚热带旱生。森林干燥地带中一个树种，人工栽培有3500余年。我国种植的品种是唐代从中亚引入栽培，至今已有1300多年，属中亚类群。

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我国栽培阿月浑子虽然历史悠久，但多为零星种植，主要集中分布在新疆天山以南的喀什和田、阿克苏地区，以疏附县和疏勒县种植的较多。之前我还一直以为我国商场卖的开心果都是美国进口的，还以为美国是开心果的原产国，现在到了伊朗我才知道，美国的开心果是从伊朗引植过去的。开心果产于古波斯，被移植到美国后，又被近代人称为“美国花生”。

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开心果中含有丰富的油脂，有润肠通便的作用，助于机体排毒。开心果又是滋补食药，它味甘无毒，温肾暖脾，补益虚损，调中顺气，能治疗神经衰弱、浮肿、贫血、营养不良、慢性泻痢等症。开心果果仁含有维生素E等成分，有抗衰老的作用，能增强体质；

传说五世纪时的波希战争中，波斯人英勇无比，在恶劣的环境中愈战愈勇，最终打败了希腊人，其“秘密武器”就是士兵们吃了一种神奇的干果开心果。因此，古代波斯国国王将开心果视为“仙果”。

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Jumbo Huang Notes: Humid Rasht was raining today, we could not find any restaurants around the hotel, so we took shared taxi to Fuman which is a city in and the capital of Fuman County, Gilan Province, Iran. Rice has been cultivated in this region for many years, where some indigenous cultivars were conventionally bred by farmers. Fuman also produces Persian cookies called Koloocheh. The Fuman Koloocheh is thinner and larger than its famous brethren, the Lahijan Koloocheh. We had lunched at Fuman, the Pizza was delicious, we met the Mother and daughter, they guided us how to took taxi to the mountain top castle, Gilan province in north of Iran is spectacularly beautiful. It is cool, moisture, hilly and very verdant. Proximity to Caspian Sea makes it a favorite destination for domestic tourists and every national holiday sees it getting filled with people. Accommodations are hard to find then and this makes tourists spill over to the nearby towns of the main city of Rasht. While, not quite pretty or comfortable, those places had mostly bordered along the Caspian Sea and the beaches had not been clean. many fathers of various ages, sizes and temperaments had frolicked in shorts with their children while the mothers had watched them from the shore. Resplendant in full make up and regular clothes, many women had fussed over her families breakfasts’ during that time, and only a handful sporty ones had braved the waves in their make up and full body swimsuit, which had been worn underneath regular clothes.We had left Rasht after breakfast and had slowly meandered our way up to Ghal-e-Rudkhan Castle. The journey had been refreshing and the beautiful countryside had been one huge garden. Flower heavy wild rose bushes had bordered the road like a fragrant wall and daffodil clusters had danced in the wind. The flat farm lands had been dissected by small streams and ducks had noisily waddled along the fresh green grass. Soon hillocks had started appearing in the distance and by the time pine forests had shown up like dark patches, the air had been misty cool. Mountains had taken over the landscape quickly and we had weaved along heavily forested winding roads. Ghal-e-rudkhan castle had been easy to reach and located high in the green mountains,

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it had looked like middle Earth. Built as a military outpost during the Seljuk dynasty, the complex had included a medieval brick and stone castle which had straddled 2 peaks. A long winding trail through dense forests had lead to its massive entrance and a few thousand steps had encompassed its towers. The castle had provided us with a good hike and post our massive Gilan lunch, it had been rather required. The hike had been a beautiful one too, with green, mist washed mountains and beautifully islolated forests. Streams had gurgled down mossy glens and here and there, small outdoor restaurants had made it look very atmospheric. Tea vendors had peddled hot bevearage and cookies from little shacks and samovars had steamed like genies. It had been a scene out of a very romantic Persian poetry and we had slowed our pace to take in the beauty. It had been a bit late, by the time we had reached the castle and immediately dark clouds had descended upon us. It had absolutely breathtaking at the top and we had breathed lungs full of cool air, as eagles had drifted in and out of the mists. Rain had fallen soon and it had been a drizzle befitting the province of silver rain. Fine, gauze like and blowing in the wind like silver curtains, the rain had submerged the desolate castle in a painting like mysterious beauty. The long downpour had cut short our Ghal-e-Rudkhan exploration, but being tired from the hike, neither me or Iris had minded it much. We had huddled, instead, in the mossy shadows of the old castle and stuck our tongues out like children, to catch the rain. Sweet, cold and needle like sharp, the rain drops had felt like pure nectar. Persians are highly romantic people and their penchance for beauty is world famous. But to seek, find and excel in it at every point of space and time, is an art possessed by this ancient civilization itself. This trait had been passed on even when Persia had been reborn as Iran and when blessed with such simple, understated loveliness like Ghal-e-Rudkhan Castle, it is not difficult to practise this exquisite soul soothing habit. I too had felt and cultivated this habit during my time in Iran and on that Gilan day I had reveled in it among old bricks, soft moss and silver rain. The scene had reminded me of Kahlil Gibran’s beautiful quote, ” We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ”

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And to me that’s the essence of travel, the spirituality of exploration and the reason why tasting nectar sweet raindrops in the misty hills of Gilan had felt so divine. It is better to do Ghal-e-Rudkhan Castle in the first half of the day as it is a good thousands of steps hike and some parts of the stony path are broken and slippery due to the constant rainfall the area receives. There is no electricity in the entire trail and in the evening hours it tends to get quite dim. Ponies are also available for those not willing to do the long walk. Rudkhan Castle is a brick and stone medieval castle in Iran. Located 25 km southwest of Foman city north of Iran in Gilan province, it is a military complex which had been constructed during the Sasanian era (224-651), and later rebuilt during the Seljuq era by followers of the Ismaili sect. The castle is built on two tips of a mount, with an area of 2.6 hectares (6.4 acres). Its architects have benefited from natural mountainous features in the construction of the fort. The Rudkhan Castle River originates in the surrounding heights and flows from south to north. After crossing a mountainous winding route with dense forests, the first thing that one notices about the castle is its big entrance gate. Rudkhan Castle sits at the two peaks of a mountain at elevations of 715 and 670 metres and contains strong fortifications and battlements at a length of 1550 metres. The castle's 42 towers still stand intact. It was a miracle in Iran, to my point of views.

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